Eri, Muga and Nuni Silk: How Assam's Silks Compare
In short: Assam in Northeast India is home to several distinctive silks. Eri is a soft, matte peace silk. Muga is a rare golden silk found only in Assam. Nuni is a rare handspun silk with a soft glow. Dzukou makes handwoven shawls from all three.
The three silks at a glance
| Eri silk | Muga silk | Nuni silk | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Look | Matte, soft colours | Natural golden sheen, no dye needed | Soft, glowing sheen |
| Feel | Soft, wool-like | Smooth and durable | Light and breathable |
| How it is made | Spun by hand after the moth leaves the cocoon | Handspun and handwoven from wild golden silk | Handspun by women weavers |
| Found in | Assam and Northeast India | Only in Assam | Only in Assam |
| Best for | Everyday wear, all seasons | Special occasions and heirloom pieces | Light layering, all year |
| Dzukou shawls | Timeless Silk, Silk Uncut | Heritage Silk, Rann of Kutch | Niseko |
Eri silk
Eri silk is spun from the cocoons of the Eri silkworm after the moth has left, which is why it is called peace silk or ahimsa silk. It has a soft, matte, wool-like texture, keeps you warm when it is cool and cool when it is warm, and is gentle on sensitive skin. Read more in What is Eri silk?
Muga silk
Muga silk comes from the Muga silkworm (Antheraea assamensis), which is native to Assam. It is famous for its natural golden lustre, which needs no dye, and for its strength: traditional Muga garments are passed down through generations. Muga silk also offers natural protection from UV light. Dzukou's Heritage Silk shawl is handspun and handwoven from Muga silk, and the Rann of Kutch shawl uses a lighter, whitish-golden Muga (Ghisa) yarn.
Nuni silk
Nuni silk is an extremely rare silk found only in Assam. Dzukou's Niseko shawls are handspun from Nuni silk by women weavers in rural Assam. It has a soft, glowing sheen and is light, breathable and gentle on skin.
Eri and Muga together
The Tribal Tusker shawl combines a base of pure Eri silk with woven golden or blue and red Muga patterns, bringing together the softness of Eri and the lustre of Muga.
Common questions
Which Assam silk is the softest?
Eri silk has the softest, most wool-like feel. Nuni silk is light with a soft glow, and Muga silk is smooth with a golden sheen.
Is Muga silk dyed gold?
No. Muga silk has a natural golden lustre and needs no dye.
Which silk shawl is best for everyday wear?
Eri silk is the most versatile for everyday wear because it is soft, breathable and comfortable in every season.
Where are Dzukou's silk shawls made?
All of Dzukou's silk shawls are handwoven or handspun by women artisans in rural Assam, India.